Autumn Wines
When it comes to drinking wine, it’s always worth considering that what people want to eat and drink throughout the course of the year changes and notably, this is with the different seasons. I love how the sunshine makes me reach for a chilled red, a lively refreshing white and of course, an ice-cold glass (or two) of rosé and these styles all work well with the warm weather. The requirement from wine is refreshment, enlivening acidity and nothing too overpowering to marry well with the season’s salads and lighter fare such as fish and ‘al fresco’ picnics. Even a BBQ needs a red with soft tannins and some bouncy fruit to work well with sweet marinades. And then suddenly, the kids are back at school, the nights start drawing in, the long evenings of sitting outside are over and the seasonal cycle continues its march, marked by the turning of the leaves, the closing of the curtains and wine wise – reaching for something altogether more comforting and structured.
If we are lucky, summer and autumn might be bridged by an ‘Indian Summer’ – when the warm days stretch into September and as this transition occurs, an ideal wine style is Albariño (typically from the Rias Baixa’s region of Spain) or a Portuguese Alvarinho – the same grape, just different names. The combination of juicy, bouncy stone fruits with a lick of citrus and seaside salinity is fantastic with white meats, chicken Ceasar salads or salmon. Try the Pluma Alvarinho 2023 from Vinho Verde DOC which has a pretty lemon colour and ripe aromas of apricot and yellow plums with some honeysuckle and lemon zest. The Alba Vega 2023 from Spain is delicious – lighter, tighter and brighter but with peach blossom, grapefruit and lime zest. Tangy and fresh but also with a pleasing texture so that it works well both with the late summer and the approach of autumn.
Once autumn is well underway and food becomes slightly richer as the weather gets colder, so too does wine need to up its game structure wise to cope. Whites for me that are synonymous with autumn are those that are generous with plenty of ripe stone fruits – such as peach and apricot. Viognier (amazing with chicken tagine and Middle Eastern dishes) is a classic choice as of course is Chardonnay – the oaked ones proving that extra layer of comfort if there has been any oak ageing as the notes of cinnamon and spice add more depth, such as the Tiempo + Tierra Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2024 from Navarra. Just add a roast chicken or fish pie for autumn nirvana.
When it comes to reds – and once we move firmly into October and November, I certainly reach for more reds from the rack than whites – then medium-bodied reds with blue and purple fruits are a great choice: think Merlot, Nero d’Avola and Tempranillo. The Lomas Carrera Merlot 2024 is a wonderful example – brimming with black pepper, capsicum, cassis, cassis leaf and dark chocolate. Supple, medium-bodied and tasty it can be enjoyed with red meats, burgers or lasagne but is soft enough to take through to the sofa and sip in front of Strictly. Arcano Nero d’Avola 2024 is a gorgeous wine, full of bouncy fruit such as plums, raspberries, Morello cherry and fruits of the forest. A great post ‘trick-or-treating’ pick me up – think chilli-con-carne, a warming bowl of spaghetti Bolognese or a pizza. Finally, a Spanish Tempranillo is an archetypal autumn wine – medium bodied, easy drinking and comforting. The Senorial Tempranillo Rioja 2023 is juicy with blueberries, raspberries, red cherries and plums with well-balanced tannins and can be matched with a wide range of different foods from lamb to roasted vegetables and of course, paella!
Soon enough though, autumn is over and the reds get richer and even more flavoursome to cope with the next season’s food and festivities……………….